Just about every piece of consumer grade networking equipment you can buy today has its good points, bad points, and bizarre, or cute little quirks. The bad points are usually poor or improper ventilation, the wrong antennas for the job, and misleading descriptions or...
Just about every piece of consumer grade networking equipment you can buy today has its good points, bad points, and bizarre, or cute little quirks. The bad points are usually poor or improper ventilation, the wrong antennas for the job, and misleading descriptions or information. Surprisingly, the DIR-1750-US router only has one significant bad point, and it''s in the embedded software (aka firmware). I did what many of us who buy routers do once mine arrived. I went into the router''s settings, configured them the way I had in my previous router because that''s what I want, and didn''t bother reading any of the documentation.
The router itself is very easy to set up, but the software in the router is very, very ignorant. For example, if you manually change the LAN IP and Range to something the router doesn''t like, it will tell you that the new addresses were successfully saved. The router will reboot with the new savings enabled; except it won''t do it. Once it restarts, if it didn''t like those addresses, it didn''t save them, and you will see the default LAN IP Address and Range again. There is no error message, or a prompt telling you that you made a mistake. Technically you can assign the majority of LAN IP Addresses as static IP''s, leave a smal number of addresses as the DHCP Pool for the router to assign Dynamic IP Addresses, without changing the Network Mask. However, if you make the DHCP Pool of Addresses too small, and do not change the Netmask, the router will simply hang after rebooting.
The hardest thing I had trouble figuring out was why the router not only would stop transmitting a WiFi signal for approximately 30 seconds at a time, after being on for 2 days straight, and why the ethernet ports on the LAN side of the router also suddenly stopped responding randomly after 2 days straight running. What I learned is that the router doesn''t like me much, because I make typo''s. lol
When setting up the LAN IP Address and Range for the router, you''re not allowed to use anything but the sanctioned and pre-allocated Private IP Address Blocks. As long as the IP Address you choose is within one of the three blocks, the router is fine with it. One block, the most commonly used for home networking devices is 192.168.xxx.xxx, but I accidentally entered 192.169.xxx.xxx, and it worked... until it didn''t. For reasons I don''t understand, the QoS Settings for the Quality of Service Engine, pretty much broke in my router. I had to repeat the same steps 3 times in a row to get any changes to be saved, but there was no way to verify that they were saved correctly. Once I fixed the typo the QoS settings worked like they should, and so far the problems with the WiFi and ethernet ports have gone away.
The router claims 3 spatial transmit and receive streams simultaneously, which may only seem awesome if your device or WiFi adapter supports AC1750. The thing is that this means the router under good conditions can also communicate with, say 3 old phones, at the same time. Another benefit is the Virtual LAN (VLAN) in the firmware. If you have no other alternative, using a WiFi Guest Zone for IoT (Internet of Things) or SMART Plugs and Switches provides more security than sharing them on the same WiFi network as your personal devices. The problem is if you ever need to manually get into a device''s settings, or reset it to bring it back on-line. The WiFi Guest Zone is partitioned off inside many routers, which can become a hassle.
Better yet! Buy yourself a WiFi Access Point, connect it to an ethernet port on the router, and assign that port as a VLAN. In a VLAN, only those devices connected to that port can communicate with each other. Add a switch along with the AP to the VLAN to add more devices. If you need to get into a device, you can simply connect to the AP, or plug a cable into the switch you added to the VLAN. Everything inside the VLAN, just like with the WiFI Guest Zone, is partitioned off from the rest of the devices connected to the router. If the router only supports up to 20 or 30 WiFi clients connected simultaneously, that includes the WiFi Guest Zone. I''ve easily got over 20 SMART Plugs, Wall Switches, and Dimmers combined. The VLAN gives you something that a WiFi Guest Zone can''t: room for expansion.
Speaking about just my DIR-1750-US, because I''m not a network guy, and I have no intentions of getting into networking, the router works best when treated two ways. Plug and Play works best if you just need a router, and want to avoid some of the router''s quirks caused by its firmware. The Setup Wizard is quick, simple, and will do most of the work for you. If you want to use some of the more granular features and controls within the settings of the router, then treat the router as a device somewhere between an OpenWRT home router and an Enterprise router. The software seems to have very specific rules in play under certain settings, so things can go sideways. However, all things considered, it''s a really good router. It''s an ugly router if you''re not into gaming, or all things macho, but nothing a well ventilated bag couldn''t fix. lol